Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc

In my continuing series of grapes that grow in the Puget Sound AVA, today I’m talking about Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.  As far as we can tell, Pinot Gris was first planted in the Puget Sound AVA by Gerard Bentryn sometime in the 1980s (There had been debate as to if he was the first in the whole state or not, but that’s neither here nor there) . He has told me that he acquired the “Rulander” clone of Pinot Gris, but he can’t remember the source of the cuttings. Then as far as I know, I am the first to plant any Pinot Blanc west of the Cascades.

A little history on Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. Genetically, they are clones of Pinot Noir and have the same exact DNA (as with all clones of Pinot Noir). Pinot Noir is a pretty genetically unstable grape and is prone to mutation. Long time growers of Pinot Noir report seeing clusters of fruit on the the same vine having both red and white fruit on them. I’m sure some enterprising individual growing Pinot Noir in France hundreds of years ago saw these mutations and took cuttings from that shoot and replanted it and started growing Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc.

They grow pretty much the same as Pinot Noir in the field and are hard to tell apart until the fruit changes color at veraison. Generally, you would pick them earlier than Pinot Noir because you would want higher acid levels with them than  you would with a red wine grape like Pinot Noir. Not much work had been to differentiate the clones of these two grapes as there has been for Pinot Noir, but as time goes on, there will be more research into different clones and such. Pinot Gris is enjoying huge boost in sales, mainly due to the Pinot Grigio trend. Pinot Blanc, while not quite as popular in this country, is always there being planted and sold because it simply makes delicious wines when planted in the right spot.

Let’s talk about these grapes in the context of the Puget Sound AVA. Since they are genetically identical to Pinot Noir it would bode well for them that they are able to ripen in this climate mainly because you would need to pick them earlier than Pinot Noir because you would want slightly higher acid levels. Bainbridge Island Vineyards has been growing Pinot Gris for 20+ years and has always made an exceptional tasting example. With the research into newer clones and rootstock combinations, it’s possible that we could enhance the ripening of the grape if needed. They make wines generally between 12-13% alcohol in our climate, but with tons of flavor. Alsace grows the most Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc in the world and sometimes those wines can reach higher levels of alcohol and many years they can do late harvest wines.

For those wanting to plant more traditional French varieties that would do well in the warmer areas Puget Sound AVA, I would recommend planting both of these grapes. I’ve got several Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc rows going (along with Auxerrois) and while I won’t be making a individual Pinot Gris/Blanc wine anytime soon, I will grow enough to take notes on it and make a blend.  I know at least 3 other new vineyards going in that have large plantings of Pinot Gris so watch for some Puget Sound Pinot Gris wines in the next couple of years…

The Holy Grail in the Vineyard

Steve Picking Grapes
Steve Picking Grapes

When I started down this path to grape grower and wine maker about 15 years ago, I didn’t know where I was going with it. It was fun and I just wanted to have a few vines in my backyard. A guy named, Jeff Jernegan got ahold of me and showed me this abandoned vineyard on the southern end of Maury Island. My eyes got big and I dove in. (Jeff died a couple of years back from brain cancer way too young at about 55 years old) 

Initially, we wanted to stay with the grapes that had been growing around the Puget Sound for a few years. Namely Madeleine Angevine, Muller-Thurgau, Siegerrebe and Pinot Noir. So, we planted a 1/2 acre of Pinot Noir to start, but we carved out space for our experimental block. In this area we were going to plant vines that had never been planted in these parts. Jeff like to drink big red wines (at this point in my life, I could barely tell the difference between Pinot and Cabernet). Part of that research effort was to find the “Holy Grail” of grapes for our region. A grape that would ripen early and give us higher sugar levels and basically make a full bodied red wine.

Just as we were starting Maury Island Vineyards (MIV), Gary Moulton at the WSU Research Station at Mt. Vernon, WA put together a rescue mission to British Columbia to retrieve dozens of vines that were going to be ripped out of a BC agricultural research station. In the winter of 1998, Gary basically gave all the local growers, that wanted them, vines for research.

Jeff and I snagged many different varieties with names like St. Laurent, Zweigelt, Dornfelder, Agria, Regent, Garanoir. Along with those, we also got from other sources, Pinot Meunier, Gamay Noir and several Pinot Noir clones. From my research, all of these vines were supposed to be earlier than our standard Pinot Noir Pommard clone.

We planted them, grew them for a couple of years. They all make excellent wine. I just wish I had 40 acres so I could grow all of these vines in large enough quantities to make a couple of barrels of each. The problem is that none of them really ripen earlier than Pinot Noir Pommard in our climate. We ended up picking them all at the same time, they just had different brix and acids.

In our trials, Regent was clearly ahead on the charts. Agria ripened the same time, but had low brix and low acids. We didn’t have Garanoir to full maturity, but from Gary’s trials it might be a winner. We didn’t have Pinot Noir Precoce (aka Fruhburgunder) at that time. It was imported a couple of years later and it has shown promise of ripening earlier than regular clones of Pinot but seems to have issues with fruit set and weak growth.

I’m not sure where I’m going to go with these grapes. I have a few cases of Dornfelder I made from Mt. Vernon grapes and it’s a big wine. Regent also makes a big wine. St. Laurent and Zweigelt make slightly bigger wines than Pinot Noir. Agria makes a dark, tannic wine, but didn’t have much mouth feel. Some of the new Pinot Noir clones ripened to higher brix, especially on rootstock. 

Blending might actually be the holy grail as we move forward. I made a barrel of a special blend in 2009 that we called Joyeuse (Joyful in French). It was 70% Pinot Noir, 20% Regent and 10% Agria. It was so good that the venerable Herbfarm restaurant bought 13 cases of it!

There are other grapes out there that are supposed to ripen earlier, like Rondo and Leon Millot. But what needs to happen from a grower perspective is to settle on a couple of these grapes and go from there…

What I have found is that there is no silver bullet in grape growing. It’s a constant state of experimentation. We keep fiddling with things because we are never satisfied. This is a good thing! It means a superior product in the end!

 

Summer 2013 is it going to be hot?

In a nutshell, I think 2013 could end up being one of the warmest summers we’ve had in a long time! At the very least, it could be a very dry summer. For those that remember the summer of 2009, it got a bit hot at times, but it went on and on and on and the grapes just loved it! (Then we had the dismal years of 2010-2011 which I hope we never see again!) The Climate Prediction Center is say that as of now (June 20th, 2013) we are headed for a warmer and drier than normal trend for the months of July, August and September. 

June20Climate

If you look the image on the left, provided by the US Climate Prediction Center shows trends for above normal, normal and below normal temperatures for North America. Today is rainy and cold, but starting in a week or so they are predicting a warmer and drier trend for the rest of the summer. I have such high hopes, that I doubled down on my tomatoes this year and have 16 plants in the ground.

The image on the left is the map that predicts 30 days out from now shows much warmer conditions across most of the west. The really good news is that this has been one of the warmest springs we’ve had in many years.

June20GDDHere are the Growing Degree Days for Woodinville from the Ag Weather Net website which is developed by WSU. You can see the red line (2013) and how it popped up early in the spring and has pretty much stayed one of the warmest springs we’ve had in the past several years. 2009 has a steeper trend, but this year meet or beat that year. This is all good news for my grapes. I especially would like a crop of Chardonnay which I haven’t seen since 2009. Back then, I only had 6 rows of Chardonnay, but now I have 10 so I might be able to make a whole barrel of it in a traditional Burgundy method. Only time will tell and I’m betting with my tomatoes this year!